ALBISTONE – revolutionary material developed by our team of engineers and verified with a series of laboratory tests. ALBISTONE is characterised by good colour stability and UV stability. Its remarkable plus is maximum mechanical resistance and strength, giving the material a service life of up to 50 years. ALBISTONE is a frost-resistant material with excellent thermal insulation properties. Its wholesomeness is proven by certification for drinking water.
ALBISTONE swimming pools are made of basic structural elements in the form of sheets and strip rolls. They are assembled by means of extrusion hot-air fusion with immense joint strength: they are stronger than the material itself! This substantially eliminates swimming pool cracking in the fusion joints. The braces and ribbing along the pool perimeter ensure a firm and stable pool shape.
ALBISTONE has at least 5 times the piercing resistance (impact strength) of the commonly used form of polypropylene.
Thermal resistance is a major advantage of this material. ALBISTONE can be continuously used at temperatures from -40 °C to +70 °C.
COLOURS AND COLOUR STABILITY
Colour stability depends on the quality of pigment used, which is a basic input in the pigment concentrate used for colouring a material throughout. The pigments we use are highly stable to external factors: UV radiation and swimming pool chemicals. ALBISTONE is manufactured in light blue, however, it can be customised to white or black if requested in a larger quantity.
ALBISTONE is characterised by excellent resistance to UV radiation and its service life is several times longer than that of other materials used for swimming pools (PVC sheet, fibreglass).
ALBISTONE remains 100% recyclable, even after many years of use. No harmful substances are released during its production.
ALBISTONE is wholesome. It conforms to the Czech Republic‘s hygiene requirements on contact with food, and meets similar requirements in the EU and the USA. It is certified for drinking water.
We have prepared “Step-by-step” building preparation guidelines for you in order to make preparations for and completion of the building of your new plastic swimming pool and its accessories easier and problem-free. In the following 17 steps we’ll guide you through the building preparation from the first setting out and pegging of the site, through preparing the base slab to the finishing of the pool surroundings. If you read and stick to the below recommendations, the building preparation works and finishing the swimming pool installation should not pose a big problem. So shall we open the illustrated attachment and get to work?
PREPARATION works to be done by the client:
1. Setting out the site
- spreading sand
Find a place on your property suitable for locating the swimming pool. We recommend you choose a place with as much sunshine as possible. You’ll probably want to build a roof over your pool in the future. The roof will also require certain space, so allow for it when planning where to locate the swimming pool. Peg out an area to match the size of your pool and mark the pool perimeter with sand. The marked out area of the future excavation should be at least 50 cm larger on each side – this will guarantee sufficient manipulation space. You’ll probably have to do some terrain alterations while building the pool; therefore we suggest you don’t remove all the excavated soil from the site.
2. Preparation earthworks
- preparation for a drainage system
- place for a filter shaft
- place for a counter-current system shaft
Now do the excavation works. When setting out the depth of the excavation pit, allow not only for the depth of the pool, but also for the thickness of the base slab and the level of the finishing layer top, i.e. paving, etc.
Preparation for a drainage system:
This preparation entails designing a drainage system of the base slabs. The system can be implemented in one of two ways, either in a natural way with a gradient sloping towards an already prepared discharge (e.g. into a storm water inlet), or, should draining water from the base slabs in a natural way not be possible, a “drainage kit” can be used. A drainage kit is basically drainage piping (diameter 40 to 70 mm) connected to a drainage pipe (diameter approx. 300 mm). The drainage pipe will have the function of a sump in which the drained water is collected; it must be permanently equipped with a submersible pump which must run non-stop.
Locating a filter and counter-current system shaft:
We recommend that you carefully consider where to locate the filter shaft (irrespective of whether housing the complete technology or the counter-current system only), and then prepare a trench for installing the shaft. This trench (for a technology shaft) must not be located in the way of future roof sliding rails. The trench depth will depend on the depth of the shaft and the thickness of the base slab. The following types of technology shafts are available:
- technology shaft with lid for the installation of a filter and counter-current system (Ø150, height 120 cm)
- technology shaft with lid for the installation of a filter (Ø120, height 120 cm)
- technology shaft with lid for the installation of a counter-current system (120x60x80 cm)
If your pool will have a counter-current system, the technology shaft should always be located in the pool’s centreline, with an ideal distance of 50 cm from the external outline of the pool shell, in order to have the full benefit of the counter-current system’s pump performance. If the counter-current system were to be located further from the pool shell or outside of its centreline, performance of the counter-current system equipment will be impaired. If your pool will have only a filter shaft, the shaft can be located anywhere within an 8 metre distance from the swimming pool.
3. Levelling the bottom of the excavation pit
- gravel or stones
- laying the drainage kit including drainage piping
- place for a filter shaft
- preparing and installing gravity drainage piping
When the excavation is finished, the bottom of the pit must be levelled. This is done with stones and gravel. In the top layer of finer gravel prepare the installation of drainage piping sloping towards the point of discharge.
4. Draining the base slab
Draining the base slab is a very important part of the building preparation. Precipitation or ground water may cause even very extensive deformations of the pool shell. The costs of repairing damage caused by this water would undoubtedly exceed the costs of drainage. Thus a general rule applies: neither precipitation nor ground water may reach the top of the base slab.
- installation of drainage piping
Drainage using a drainage kit:
If the base slab is going to be drained using the drainage kit (a pipe O of approx. 300 mm + drainage piping), the bottom of this pipe must be at least 50 cm below the top of the finished base slab. We recommend putting fine gravel into the bottom of this pipe. Place the pipe and secure it in a position perpendicular to the base slab. The drainage piping must have a gradient sloping towards the drainage pipe.
Gravity drainage system:
Lay the drainage piping (Ø 40 – 70 mm) in fine gravel, sloping towards the point of water discharge. We recommend that you build an inspection shaft in the system. This shaft will in the future allow you to check whether the drainage piping is blocked or not. Don’t install the shaft in a place where the future roof railing may be located. The shaft dimensions must be sufficient to allow the piping to be cleaned, e.g. with pressure water.
Important (applies to both drainage methods):
All drainage piping must, before being covered with gravel and then with concrete, be wrapped with a special geotextile (e.g. Filtek). The spacing between the drainage piping branches should not be greater than 80 cm.
5. Final levelling of the bottom of the excavation pit
- fine gravel
Before starting to cast the concrete base slab, we recommend that you level out the bottom of the prepared excavation pit. The best results are achieved with fine gravel.
6. Base slab reinforcement
- Kari meshing
To reinforce the base slab, use so-called Kari meshing
7. Concreting the bottom
- make sure the base slab is as flat and even as possible
Now we get to the phase of casting the actual concrete base slab. The slab thickness should be at least 15 to 20 cm. When casting concrete, make sure that both the pool base slab as well as base slabs of shafts, are as flat and even as possible.
- the base slab thickness will depend on the pool’s height
The actual pool shells may be of a different height; therefore it is necessary when setting out the pool to take this into account. Also don’t forget to take into account the finishing around the pool.
8. Preparing the base slab and the pool shell
- installing insulation of the pool’s bottom (geotextile, extruded polystyrene)
- installing insulation of the pool shell’s walls
Before installing the pool shell into the excavation, both the base slab and the actual pool shell must be prepared. Clean the base slab from any coarse debris, protrusions and sharp edges. These may damage the bottom of the pool shell. If the slab is uneven, we suggest you straighten it out with a levelling screed or grind the slab top.
When the base slab is ready, place thermal insulation of the pool’s bottom in the form of extruded polystyrene on it. On top of this insulation then lay geotextile to enhance the insulation properties and the protection of the pool’s bottom.
The next step is to insulate the walls of the pool shell. This is again done with polystyrene boards. If you order this insulation from us, it will be factory-fitted to the pool shell. Then your pool shell will be delivered to the place of installation with the insulation already fitted to it.
Works to be done by the vendor:
9. Installing the pool shell and the pool technologies
- installing the pool shell in the excavation pit (in collaboration with the client)
- installing technology shafts
- installing the drainage kit pump (if part of the delivery)
- complete installation of the pool technology
- testing the pool technology for potential leaks
As soon as everything is ready, installation of the pool shell and shafts in excavation pits may commence. If your Works Contract stipulates that offloading and installing the pool shell requires physical help, please make sure that the agreed number of people are available. This is then followed by complete installation and connection of the pool technology and, where applicable, the drainage pump. As soon as these works have been completed, the entire connection and functionality, tightness of joints and piping will be tested by “flooding the technology”. We recommend that you make sure the quantity of water necessary for testing the technology by flooding is available. As soon as the pool has been set in the excavation pit and installation works have commenced, you can start filling up the pool with water from your source; between 4 and 5 cubic metres of water will be required.
FINISHING works to be done by the client:
10. Preparation for building retaining walls
Before building works can commence, the pool shell must be braced to prevent it from being deformed by external forces. We recommend that you place braces between the pool’s reinforcing ribs in a suitable way. Avoid scratching the shell; use a suitable technique.
11. Gradually built retaining walls
- building retaining walls
- filling the space with dry concrete
- filling the remaining space with soil
As soon as the pool shell and the technology shaft are ready, you can start gradual construction of the retaining walls. We recommend that you connect the brickwork to the base slab in a suitable way. When building the retaining walls, it is important to leave a sufficient gap between the retaining wall and the reinforcing ribs of the pool and the technology shaft, so that the space in between can be filled with so-called dry concrete. Never compact the dry concrete in order to prevent bumps from being formed in the pool shell. Fill up the remaining space between the retaining wall and the pit side wall with soil. Make sure there is no direct contact between the pool shell and the brickwork anywhere between the bottom and the pool shell reinforcement collar.
When building the retaining walls as described above, the swimming pool must be gradually filled up with water. The water level must always be approximately 30 cm above the top of the retaining wall. The retaining wall height will depend on the level of paving (if any) around the pool. The pool shell has a reinforcing collar about 30 cm below the shell’s top edge. This collar must be fixed to the retaining wall – see the detail. The detail shows the fixing of the top of the pool shell.
We do not recommend that you merely fill in the entire gap with concrete, i.e. without building retaining walls. However, if you don’t want to build retaining walls, you’ll have to prevent the pool shell from being deformed.
13. Constructing a base slab for future paving
The level of the base slab’s top will depend on the finished level of paving. The slab should be reinforced with so called Kari meshing and should be connected to the retaining walls to form a monolithic slab. We recommend that, depending on the size of this slab, you construct supports to prevent potential future cracking of the monolithic slab.
14. Terrain preparation works
Before final landscaping of the pool’s surroundings, it will be necessary to level the terrain. We recommend that you make the surrounding terrain at least 10 cm below the level of the base slab. You’ll appreciate this difference in heights when maintaining your pool, for instance when mowing the lawn.
15. Paving the base slab
The level of the top of the base slab will depend on the height of your pavers. Make a final paving base slab and straighten any uneven patches with a screed. If you are thinking about putting a roof over your pool, it will be necessary to firmly bond the paving to the base slab, either by laying it in a concrete underlay, or in some other suitable way. If the paving is to have decorative pool kerbstones, make sure that the height of these kerbstones does not prevent the roof from sliding on its railing. In this phase you must also install fixing components (plastic nibs) for the pool steps and connecting boxes for the pool lights if these are part of your pool.
16. Final landscaping
Now everything is ready for paving. If you are going to install a roof over your swimming pool, you must make sure the paving is as level as possible, so that sliding components of the future pool roof can be installed there.
17. Ordering a pool roof from ALBIXON a.s.
Congratulations, you’ve just transformed your garden into a home relaxation and entertainment centre. We wish you many enjoyable moments and a lot of fun when using our swimming pools and pool roof. If you have any questions or queries, please do not hesitate to contact our sales representative.
Getting the pool technologies ready:
Remove winter floaters from the pool (or plastic bottles if you used them instead of floaters). Using a scoop on a telescopic handle, remove any coarse debris from the pool (leaves, pine needles, twigs, etc.).
Shut all filtration system valves (intake and circulation delivery branches and, if you have one, the counter-current pump), and start adding water to the pool.
Reinstall pumps (if these were removed) and other technologies. When fitting them back, all technologies must be connected by means of plastic pipe unions with rubber “O” sealing rings. Before starting the reinstallations, make sure that all contact surfaces and plastic pipe union grooves are clean. Before tightening the “O” rings, apply a suitable product to them. We recommend that you use a small quantity of silicone Vaseline to prevent the sealing rings from turning and getting damaged. The same applies to the fitting of all other coupling components, for instance the six-way valve. When tightening any plastic pipe union, be careful not to mechanically damage it!
Open the valves. After flooding the technology, check whether all joints are watertight. If you find any leak, the joint must be made watertight – e.g. by carefully tightening the joint or by dismantling and reinstalling the pipe union. If necessary ask our Service Centre for help.
Before turning on the circulation (filtration) pump, set the six-way valve to the position “Filtration”. Check whether there is a basket to catch course debris inserted in the skimmer, that the skimmer does not show any traces of damage and that no foreign object is trapped inside. Also check and make sure that the hair filter of the circulation pump is completely clean.
If everything is okay, turn the pump on. By turning the pump on you will be able to see if all dismountable joints are watertight. If the technology shows any traces of water leaks, proceed according to the instructions in paragraph 4.
Important: Never change the six-way valve position setting while the circulation pump is running. It could damage the valve!
If your pool has a counter-current system, proceed in accordance with the above instructions. After turning the counter-current system on, check that all joints and controls are tight as per the above instructions. Also test the electrical and pneumatic control – the pushbutton inside the shell. Pressing the pushbutton must turn the counter-current pump on and off. If you identify any water leak, proceed in accordance with the instructions in paragraph 4.
Important: Check all joints for potential leaks on a weekly basis. It is possible that in spite of correct installation, due to the system’s running and increasing temperature of the pool water, some of the joints may become loose. Subsequent problems with water leaking into the technology shaft may result in some completely avoidable problems. If you identify any problem that you are unable to fix yourself, contact our Service Centre.
Main principles of pool water maintenance – starting a new season:
Most important for maintaining the pool water is keeping the recommended values of pH factor and free chlorine. The recommended values for pH factor are between 7.2 and 7.6 and for chlorine 0.1 to 0.6. These values can be basically measured using any commonly available tester. Always measure these factors at the same time of day, preferably in the morning after the end of a filtration cycle. pH and chlorine values can fluctuate during the day quite significantly depending on the amount of sunshine, the number of people in the swimming pool, etc.
After topping up the pool to the normal level, first measure the water’s pH factor. If it is necessary to adjust the value, use only recommended chemicals – also follow application instructions and keep the chemicals away from children!
A little advice: If the pH measurement reveals a deviation greater than two degrees, apply the chemical for reducing pH factor in smaller doses than those stated in the instructions. Spread the process of reducing the pH factor over a few days. Example: the pH factor shows the value 8.0 – apply the recommended quantity of the pH factor reducing chemical, but divide it into three doses over three days.
If you maintain your pool water with chemicals only, measure the value of free chlorine in the swimming pool water and if necessary apply the chemical to the pool water according to the instructions. If you are using chlorine pills, bear in mind that these pills may not be placed in the skimmer for a longer period of time, especially when the circulation pump is turned off. The reason is that a large concentration of chlorine would develop in the skimmer and the piping, which may cause serious damage to the technology itself! We suggest you put the pills into floaters, which are commonly available (floating chlorine dispensers). It is important when using chlorine pills to frequently check the concentration of free chlorine. Protracted “overchlorinating” may result in even severe discolouring of the swimming pool shell or foil. Overchlorination also boosts the potential corrosion process affecting metal components of the pool technology and the swimming pool roof.
If you use a UV lamp for maintaining your pool water, it is essential to keep the pH factor at the recommended value. It is possible that, over time, the quality of the pool water will deteriorate; therefore always have chlorine for superchlorination at hand and if necessary apply it according to the instructions.
If you use an ioniser for maintaining your pool water, it is also essential to keep the pH factor at the recommended level. In this case we suggest you also check (with a tester) the concentration of copper (Cu) in the water. It is necessary to make sure that the recommended values are not exceeded. If the values have been exceeded, turn the device off for a few days and measure the copper value again. If the swimming pool is in use, set the control unit to several filtration cycles a day at full capacity, and then measure the value with a copper tester. If the test shows the presence of copper in the water, reduce the ioniser performance on the control unit to the values recommended in the instructions. It can happen that when the pool is used, the water quality deteriorates, therefore always have chlorine for superchlorination at hand, and if necessary use it as instructed.
If you have a salt water pool with a salt water chlorinator, also maintain the recommended pH values. To correct the pH factor of your pool water, always use chemicals intended for this purpose. When putting the swimming pool in use, set the control unit to run at full capacity for several hours, measure the value of free chlorine and then set the equipment according to the instructions.
And at the end some suggestions and troubleshooting tips:
When you “start up” your swimming pool, i.e. top up water, install and turn on the technology, the water often loses its original colour. It looks muddier; sometimes it even acquires a colour, and so on. This is quite normal, because when you add new water to the pool, apply chemicals to it and turn on the technology, the pool water simply starts reacting with the chemicals and the turned on technology (ioniser, salt water chlorinator, etc.), and hence a reaction can take place in the pool water, e.g. a reaction with salts or metals which are, and always will be, part of the pool water. Therefore before opting for an application of more chemicals or increasing the performance of the control units of the installed equipment, always extend the time duration of filtration cycles. If you extend the filtration cycle, we suggest you backwash the filter.
We trust you’ll be happy with our equipment and use it to your full satisfaction. Should anything be unclear to you or if you have any queries, please do not hesitate to contact our Service Centre. We’ll be pleased to help you.
Preparing your swimming pool for winter
To make sure that your pool and all of its equipment function without a problem the next season, you must prepare the pool for winter. We suggest you use the services of our professionally trained technicians who will not only prepare your swimming pool and its technology for “winter hibernation”, but also answer any queries you may have concerning the handling of the technology and resolving any potential problems with maintaining the pool water… and we’re sure you do have some questions to ask. After making an arrangement, a technician will arrive, prepare your pool properly for the winter and explain everything to you step-by-step and if necessary apply chemicals intended for preparing the pool water for the winter.
If in spite of our suggestion you decide to do it yourself – to prepare your pool for winter without professional help – please carefully study the below procedure and guidelines on how to prepare your pool for winter.
We recommend you prepare your swimming pool for the coming winter if the pool temperature drops below 10°C. If the pool water temperature does not drop below this limit, all the swimming pool technology should remain in operation. At the end of the swimming season, i.e. roughly when the pool water temperature drops below 20°C, we suggest you shorten the technology (circulation pump) running times by about 2/3 of the original setting. Also keep other equipment that maintains the pool water operational, such as: UV lamp, ioniser or salt water chlorinator. If you maintain your pool water by using chemicals only, it will be necessary to check the water pH factor and chlorine content about once a fortnight. And if required, adjust these values to within the recommended range.
Why do we suggest you prepare your pool for winter already in autumn?
When the pool water temperature drops below 10°C, the processes taking place there reduce the quantity of bacteria, algae and microorganisms to a minimum. We recommend that during the winter you keep the pool water clean and with an adjusted pH factor.
1. To prepare your pool for winter effectively, it is essential that before the winter off-season the pool water is clean. And the same applies to the swimming pool itself. Therefore don’t forget to vacuum clean the pool bottom as well as the walls.
Using the function “Backwash”, backwash the filter thoroughly. “Backwash” is one of the modes (positions) of the six-way valve which is an integral part of the filter vessel. Let the system run in this mode for quite a while. Check visually whether the filtration medium (sand) is really clean by looking at the water running out of the pool. It must be clean. If you’ve cleaned the filtration medium thoroughly, you’ve also prepared the pool for the next spring.
Don’t forget: In the mode “Alarm”, pool water will be running from the six-way valve (in a relatively strong stream), which may flood your technology shaft housing the filter vessel. If your six-way valve is not connected to a waste pipe, you can use the vacuum cleaner hose to discharge the water running out. Attach the hose end piece to the valve properly, making sure it won’t become loose.
We recommend you adjust the water pH factor to an optimal value (7.2 – 7.6).
Get the pool vacuum cleaner ready with a telescopic handle and hose.
Remove the basket for catching coarse debris from the skimmer, insert the hose end piece to the skimmer “bottom” (you can also use a special hose adapter). The skimmer bottom and the adapter have a thread. Screw the adapter lightly to the bottom of the skimmer by turning it not more than 1 – 2 revolutions. Some types of pools do not have a threaded trimmer bottom and a treaded hose adapter. If this is your case, insert the end piece of the vacuum cleaner hose directly into the skimmer suction hole.
If it is necessary to drain more water from the pool, set the six-way valve to the position “Waste”.
Don’t forget: For this function you must use the mechanical vacuum cleaner. This cleaner must be submerged, including the hose, to the bottom of the pool shell. If you turn on the circulation pump with the six-way valve set to the position “Waste”, it will be important to realise that the drained water will be running out of the six-way valve in a relatively strong stream. At that moment you must have at hand a suitable hose to discharge this water from the technology (filter vessel) shaft. However, if you have your six-way valve connected to a waste pipe, the problem is solved.
It’s important that you drain the pool water to below the levels all installed technologies, i.e. 10 – 20 cm below technology inlets and outlets. By technology inlets and outlets we mean the jets, skimmer and counter-current head. If your swimming pool shell has integral steps (in the pool corner, in the lagoon, etc.), it is important that you drain the pool water to the level of the second step.
If your swimming pool is also fitted with a light, it must be taken out. Remove the centring plastic frame. Underneath this frame you’ll find one self-tapping screw. Remove this screw, tilt the body of the light towards the pool and, by gently pulling it upwards, remove the light. A sufficiently long power supply cable is connected the back of the body of the light. Disconnect the cable and place the light on the swimming pool edge.
If your pool is equipped with a stainless steel ladder (steps), we recommend you take the ladder off the brackets and treat it with Silichrom.
After the pool water has been drained to the required level, it is important to also drain the filter vessel. At the bottom of the filter vessel are two draining screws. The smaller of the screws is for draining water – loosen it.
Important! The bigger of the two screws is for replacing the filtration medium – under no circumstances loosen this screw.
The filter vessel can also be drained by disconnecting the six-way valve pipe unions, unscrewing the large flange nut and removing the entire valve by lifting it. We suggest you set the valve position selection lever to an intermediate position (position in between functions). Store the valve. After you’ve done this, you can start sucking the water out of the filter vessel. Do this by using your pool vacuum cleaner.
It is important that you leave the draining screw open throughout the winter – i.e. screwed out. We also recommend you remove the pressure gauge and drain all water out of it, otherwise the gauge may get irreparably damaged.
Put a small quantity of a disinfectant, e.g. Savo, which is specifically intended for swimming pools, into the drained filter vessel (into the sand).
Disconnect the filter pump. We recommend you remove the pump and store it in a warm and dry place. Alternatively, you can leave the pump in the filter shaft, but in this case it is essential that you remove the draining screw! You’ll find it on the underside of the body of the pump. Then you must unscrew the lid of the hair filter and remove the seal.
The next step is to prepare the counter-current system for winter (obviously only if your pool is equipped with one). To prepare the counter-current system for winter, it is important to remove the draining screw on the body of the pump, and to disconnect the pipe union (delivery and intake branch) from the side of the pump itself. Leave the shutting valves open. The pump draining screw is situated on the underside of the counter-current pump.
The following point is very important; therefore please pay very close attention to it. After having completed the tasks described above, it is important to open all shutting valves (filtration intake and delivery branches and counter-current system intake and delivery branches) and to make sure there is definitely no water left in these technologies. You can do this either by using the pool vacuum cleaner or compressed air (max. pressure 1.5 bar). You must also check whether the pipes are free of blockages after your swimming pool has been out of operation for some time. An occasional visual inspection will suffice.
You must also make sure that the pool water will not freeze. There must be no continuous ice layer forming on the pool water surface. To compensate for expansion of ice should it develop, use the so-called winter floaters. You can buy these floaters from us. If you decide to buy winter floaters, you must make sure you have enough of them. When you connect the floaters into a chain, it must be long enough to cover the entire pool surface diagonal. For a 3 x 6 m pool you’ll need between 10 and 12 winter floaters.
As a substitute for winter floaters you can use plastic bottles partly filled with sand. Approximately 2/3 of the bottle must be submerged in the pool water. You must tie the bottles to each other to form a chain. For a 3 x 6 m pool you’ll need about 80 plastic bottles.
We suggest you make the investment and buy winter floaters. They have several advantages compared to plastic bottles. They have a permanent fill and, let’s face it, look a lot better than plastic bottles.
The last thing will be applying a winter product to your pool water. When applying a winter solution, it is essential to proceed in accordance with the instructions on the product’s packaging. But be careful, because usually these instructions tell you how much of the product should be applied per cubic metre of the pool water. They also state for how long the product will protect the swimming pool water.
What you should avoid – warnings
No water must remain in any part of the pool technology (pump, filter vessel, piping, etc.). The technology (piping) has a gradient, either sloping towards the pool or a technology room and from there possibly to a shaft (machine room). In some cases there is a drainage pit along the piping route. It is then important to disconnect in the pit all pipe unions or valves and to keep them disconnected throughout the winter.
If the technology (piping) contains pipe unions or screw plugs for draining “dead” spots, unscrew them and leave them open throughout the winter. In some cases you can also resolve this by loosening a ball valve (for instance in bypasses).
During the winter the water surface of the pool must be kept below the level of any technology inlets and outlets (jets, skimmer, counter-current, etc.). Perhaps you’ve let out the water from the pool below the level of technology inlets and outlets. But rain or snow may raise the water surface level. If the water level in your pool rises during the winter, you must get it down (for example with a submersible pump). The pool water surface must be kept below the bottom of technology inlets and outlets (see Point 7).
Turn off the main switch – residual protective device (RCD) – to make sure that the motor or the pool light cannot be accidently turned on “dry” (without water).
If your swimming pool is equipped with a chlorine-free water treatment system (UV lamp, disinfecting ioniser or sea salt water treatment system), such equipment should be prepared for winter in accordance with relevant user instructions. It is also essential that you remove this equipment’s control unit and store it in a dry and warm place. If you have a salt water chlorinator, the salt cell should be taken out.
If you have plastic solar absorbers (collectors), we recommend you prepare them for winter before preparing the actual swimming pool. October frosts may cause irreparable damage to them. At that time of the year the sun’s intensity is no longer sufficient to warm up the pool water, and if the equipment is not in use, any water remaining for a long time inside the collectors will be spoiled. Each subassembly has one or more draining plugs. Unscrew them, let the water drip out and then screw the plugs back. If the collectors are installed on a low-pitch roof, they should be lifted – or, if they are fastened in a more complicated way, blown through with an aerator, which will guarantee that 100% of water gets out and the collector is dry inside. Any burst damage caused by frost because of imperfect draining (or pierced by a sharp object) will not be covered by warranty! Don’t forget to turn off the solar heating control system with the correct circuit breaker!